dal maso

Let's face it, the wines of the Colli Berici are not much to get excited about; in fact, we generally avoid most of them (except for the very local prosecco of the Muraro family). Once upon a time local vino sfuso seemed like a good choice to me too; however, my tastes have since changed a bit. I *think* that I like a robust wine with an obvious oak-aged flavor. Think. Maybe. Today.

It is all a matter of taste isn't it? What makes a wine good? Every person I know has a different answer, but to me the answer is easy: it is good if you like it.
Basta.

At a recent dinner at the nearby Zamboni, a trattoria in the heart of the Colli Berici, a friend selected a Colli Berici Tai Rosso from Dal Maso of Montebello, and. . . . .what a shock, it was indeed acceptable, even good!

2005 Colpizzarda made from Tai (Tocai) Rosso grapes
(It needs to breathe a bit.)

We sought out the cantina on the Sunday of Cantine Aperte, and this is what we found:


It was a good find because of the wine, but also because of the exceptionally friendly welcome from the family. Mr. Duncan took two cases, one of the Tai Rosso and the other of the Merlot. There is a white, Riva del Molino (2007), that has received a nod by Gambero Rosso with a tre bicchieri rating. We accepted the offer of a taste. Good stuff. (There are other award-winning bottles available as well.)

We'll be back, and recommend a visit to you without reservation; in fact, the area is just delightful and would make for a good leisurely Sunday drive and lunch. Call the winery ahead to let them know you are coming. Let me know if you find good eats here!


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